At this point it was a case of "looking right" and one thing that didn't was where the roll bar met the bottom of the spring/damper unit.
Lower ride height with the same fixed position of the roll bar meant that it was now meeting at an angle and distorting the bushes.
I don't have a good photo of this, but the arrow indicates the area of concern.
I'm not sure how much of a problem this is in reality, but it didn't look right.
Roll bar connection now at the wrong angle
Original and modified drop links
So part two was modifying the drop links so that they can be adjusted, or in my case shortened, to get back to a neat looking joint.
Nothing special here, just cut the links, thread and make a short turnbuckle section to join it all back together.
Twenty minutes tops, put the kettle on love I'll be there by the time it's brewed.
"Are you staying in there all night ?"
Ok, twenty "LOTUS" minutes....
And that's basically what it's like today. I've made minor adjustments to ride height and the car is approximately 1" lower than standard but front and rear alignments are within the manual specifications.
Perhaps the only notable point being the rear camber is set closer to the minimum 0.5 deg, rather than mid-way at 1.0 deg.
The tyres are wider with lower profile and I'm told work better being kept as flat to the road as possible.
So, is it better ? After a summer spent experimenting I'll say a guarded "it's different". The ride is harder, which is to be expected. It feels good at 60-70mph but harsh at 20-30mph, again to be expected.
Comparison between OEM and new suspension
It feels solid in the manner of a modern sports car which perhaps shouldn't be surprising as it's got stiffer springs and lower profile tyres, but the downside is less suspension travel.
That's noticeable even when you get in the car, in the past the car would sink as you got in, but now it barely moves. Stiffer springs..... WYSIWYG. So now I know the answer to "what if ?"
If you'd like to see the format I used to record the changes, click here